Why the Dutch Eat Raw Herring in the Street — and Have for Centuries

The Groningen Vismarkt fish market on a sunny day, with colourful market stalls and the historic Der A-a Kerk church rising in the background
Image: Shutterstock

Every June, something extraordinary happens across the Netherlands. A man at a street stall lifts a small raw fish by the tail, tilts his head back, and lowers it into his mouth. The crowd around him barely blinks. For the Dutch, this is not performance art. It is lunch.

This is Hollandse Nieuwe — the Dutch new herring — and it has been the country’s most beloved street food for over six centuries.

What Is Hollandse Nieuwe?

Hollandse Nieuwe is the first catch of the season’s Atlantic herring. The name means “Dutch new,” and the word “new” matters enormously. These fish are young, caught before they develop a strong flavour. That makes them mild, fatty, and almost creamy in texture.

The season begins each May or June when Dutch fishing boats head out to the North Sea. The very first catch of the year is treated like a national event. Boats race back to shore. The fastest vessel earns the honour of presenting its catch to the king.

Until recently, that meant a literal barrel of fresh haring, delivered to the reigning monarch at Scheveningen harbour.

The 14th-Century Trick That Changed Everything

The Dutch have eaten herring since the medieval period. But in the 1380s, a fisherman named Willem Beukelszoon changed the game entirely.

He perfected a technique called gibbing — removing part of the fish’s digestive system immediately after the catch. This slows decay and triggers a gentle enzyme process that cures the fish from the inside out.

The result was a fish that stayed fresh far longer than anything rivals could offer. Dutch herring became exportable across Europe. Small fishing villages grew into powerful trading towns. The technique helped fund the Dutch Golden Age.

One small fish. Six centuries of history.

How to Eat It Like a Local

Ask a Dutch person how to eat haring and they will look at you with mild impatience. The answer is obvious to them.

You hold the fish by the tail. You tilt your head back. You lower it in.

That is the Amsterdam method — theatrical, efficient, and performed without ceremony. In other parts of the country, locals prefer their fish chopped into pieces on a small cardboard tray, topped with raw white onion and sliced pickles.

Both methods are correct. Both are defended with considerable conviction.

A broodje haring — herring on a soft white roll — is the sandwich version. You will find these at almost every fish stall in the country. Cool, fresh fish with sharp raw onion on soft bread: simple, and deeply satisfying.

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Vlaggetjesdag — The Day the Season Begins

The arrival of the first herring catch has its own festival: Vlaggetjesdag, or “little flags day.” Fishing boats decorate their masts with pennants and flags as they sail into harbour. Crowds gather on the quayside to watch.

In Scheveningen — the coastal district of The Hague — the event draws thousands of visitors each June. The first barrel of Hollandse Nieuwe is auctioned off for charity. It regularly sells for tens of thousands of euros. The rest of the catch goes to the stalls, and by midday the queues stretch across the square.

Scheveningen is one of the best places in the Netherlands to feel Dutch coastal life — and the herring season is just one reason to go.

Where to Find the Best Haring in the Netherlands

Fresh haring comes from a haringkraam — a fish stall, usually a small kiosk or cart. You will find them at street markets, near busy train stations, and in central squares across most Dutch cities.

In Amsterdam, look near the Nieuwmarkt or the Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp. In Groningen, the Vismarkt has served fresh fish for centuries. In The Hague, Scheveningen harbour is the obvious destination during the herring season.

The fishing town of Volendam, north of Amsterdam, was once the heart of the Dutch herring industry. Stalls along the harbour still sell fresh fish today. Volendam’s story goes much deeper than fish — it drew European painters for decades and still carries that energy.

New to the Netherlands? Our start here guide is the best place to begin exploring the country.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is Hollandse Nieuwe season in the Netherlands?

The Hollandse Nieuwe season typically starts in late May or early June, depending on when the first catch meets quality standards. The season runs through August. After that, the herring become too fatty and are cured or smoked differently.

What does Hollandse Nieuwe taste like?

Fresh Dutch herring is mild and creamy rather than strong or fishy. The gibbing process gives it a silky texture. Eaten with raw onion and pickles, it is one of the freshest, most distinctive street foods in the world.

Where is the best place to eat herring in the Netherlands?

Any good haringkraam in a Dutch city will serve fresh haring in season. Scheveningen harbour, the Albert Cuyp Market in Amsterdam, and Volendam are all excellent starting points for your first experience.

Is Dutch herring actually raw?

Technically, yes — Hollandse Nieuwe is not cooked. The gibbing process partially cures the fish, which the Dutch classify as raw. It is safe and clean. Out of season, smoked herring and maatjes (preserved herring in brine) are also common at Dutch fish stalls.

There is something quietly joyful about watching a Dutch person eat haring at a street stall. No fuss. No hesitation. Just a fish, a hand, and a tilt of the head. It is a tradition that has barely changed in 600 years — and in a fast-moving world, that kind of stillness is worth travelling for.

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